Our March meeting was an evening sampling Greek wines, presented by
members of the club – occasionally interrupted by bouzouki music.
Having been making wine for several thousand years, Greece is home to
some 300 varieties of indigenous grape. Most of these varieties are unheard
of outside the wine producers, and probably only one (Assyrtiko) has made
it to other countries. The evening was an opportunity to taste and learn
about 8 indigenous varieties, albeit ones not easy to find in this country.
Debra Paul opened the evening with a Savatiano from Central Greece,
made by a lady winemaker Vasiliki Akriotou. A gold medal winner, this dry and
creamy white has caught the attention of Julia Harding MW on Jancis
Robinson’s web site, who described it as outstanding and very good value.
Natalie Morgan followed with a Robola from Cephalonia of Captain Corelli
fame, a fresh and aromatic wine. From vines grown at an altitude of 600m
on Mount Ainos, this mineral and acidic white has also been praised by the
critics, James Suckling awarding it a high 92 points.
Mike Collins presented an Assyrtiko made by Karavitakis in western Crete.
Santorini is the home of assyrtiko, a mineral almost saline white. However
the desperately difficult growing conditions there – on volcanic rock with
very little rainfall and strong winds – mean that yields there are low,
although quality is superb. This, coupled with demand for land to build
holiday homes, has led to ever-increasing prices for Santorini Assyrtiko,
making it comparable to Chablis. Fortunately, the grape is now grown
elsewhere in Greece, as well as in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa,
California, Italy, and even in trials in Champagne. This is a grape to watch
for the future.
The final white of the evening was shown by Dermot Paddon, a Malagousia
from Vourvokeli in Thrace, northern Greece. Alongside some other Greek
varieties, this grape was rescued from extinction by a couple of
winemakers. This aromatic wine featured spice and floral flavours with a
tropical fruit backbone.
Brian Rippon showed the first red of the evening, an Agiorgitiko from
Domaine Skouras in the Peloponnese. This grape, allegedly pronounced AYE
-yor-YEE-tee-ko, is probably the Greek red that you’re most likely to find in
this country – should you be lucky enough to find one at all in a wine
merchants or on a restaurant list (most supermarkets are yet to discover
them…). Delicious and easy drinking but sweetly fruited and aromatic, this
could probably be enjoyed slightly chilled in a hot Greek taverna! Another
one that has drawn praise with 92 points from James Suckling.
Fiona Poole entertained everyone with her showing of a Liatiko from
Douloufakis in Crete. This early-ripening grape, named after Iouliatiko,
meaning ‘of July’, is up-and-coming, following its earlier decline in favour.
This was a wine that has benefitted from 12 months in oak, making it silky
but not at all oaky.
The evening concluded with a couple of stunning reds. Derek Whitmell
showed a Xinomavro from Alpha Estate, named ‘Hedgehog’ because of the
nesting site of these inhabitants in the single vineyard in which the grapes
are grown. Jancis Robinson described it as a very individual wine that
shows Xinomavro’s distinction well. Dermot Paddon followed with a
Moschomavro from Magoutes – another rare variety rescued from extinction
by the producer, and yet again one which Jancis Robinson raved about:
‘utterly captivating’ and ‘charmingly fragrant’.
The wines were sourced from Maltby & Greek, Strictly Wine, and The Wine
Society.
Members enjoyed a selection of Greek snacks produced by Natalie Morgan
and Giulia Rippon, and the wines mostly impressed and probably surprised
those present.
At our next meeting on 19th April we look forward to a presentation of
Czech wines, shown by Betty Novotna from Wines of Bohemia Ltd. Whether
you are an existing member or would like to come along as a guest, we
hope to see you there! You really don’t need to know anything about wine
to be able to enjoy the evening…
All the details can be found at
Brian (mail@uptonwineclub.com)